Zingcuka Loop, 2 Day Trail - (Hogsback – Eastern Cape, ZA)

Please note! This recording starts and ends at Away with the Faires in Hogsback. For those taking a package with Amatolatrails.co.za it will include transport to the official start of the trail, therefore one can deduct the initial 4km along Wolfridge Road for a total of +-41.85km. For those not taking a package which includes drop off transport, one will need to start the loop by walking along this section of Wolfridge Road for a total of +- 45.85km over the two days. Whether being dropped at the official start or not, on Day 2 one will need to include the Auckland Forest section (Amatola + section) back to Away with the Fairies or finishing on Main Road in Hogsback if staying elsewhere.

The 2 Day Zingcuka Loop is an ideal way to experience a slice of the Amatola Trail’s splendor in only two days. Its marketed almost as a ‘light’ version for those who do not have the luxury of setting 6 days aside for hiking the full Amatola. I must admit, it’s a fairly representative sample, not just because of the relative difficulty involved, but also because it covers some of those biomes and natural features indicative of the longer Amatola Trail. Afromontane forest, grasslands, escarpment edges, peaks, waterfall pools and even some sections in pine, wattle and along forestry roads can be expected on this loop. In fact, it shares most of its kilometers with Days 5, 6 and plus sections of the Amatola Trail.

On Day 2 the trail also shares a section with Day 1 where one will have walked the previous day, in the opposite direction (Along the Tyume River). Ill elaborate more below but it should be noted that the yellow footprint markers will face in both directions on this stretch. As we were told in our briefing it may only be two days, but they’re long days and nearly 1900m of vertical gain in total. One shouldn’t be fooled into thinking this is some easy version of the Amatola which anyone can just pitch up and casually conquer, a good level of hiking fitness is required. Adi at Fairies jokingly put it that “some do the six day (the full Amatola) to train for the two day (the Zingcuka Loop)” . I think this statement is more a cautionary tale not to underestimate this loop. That being said, I do think it’s a good litmus test, breeze the Zingcuka Loop and one is probably adequately prepared for the Amatola. But somehow still I prefer it the other way around, the full Amatola first to discover and build an affinity for the area and the Zingcuka loop almost to relive some of those memories at a later stage. This is just a personal preference; there’s no right or wrong order and in reality, many who hike the one don’t end up hiking the other.

Perhaps the Zingcuka Loop should be viewed more as an entity in and of itself, not to be compared so frequently with the Amatola, but I suspect this is unlikely to be the case given the similarities. Day 2 of the Zingcuka Loop is identical to Day 6 of the Amatola (going over the Hog and plus+ section), and Day 1 has just over 50% in common with Day 5 of the Amatola. In addition, Zingcuka Day 1 has 25% in common with Day 6 of the Amatola in the opposite direction. So as a matter of fact, the Zingcuka loop has almost 90% in common with Days 5 and 6 of the Amatola incl plus. The only section completely unique to the loop is the 5km section where the route splits from the climb up to the Hog, it climbs up to the col or pass between Hogs 1 and 2 and then descends to where it joins the Amatola trail day 5 at the Wolf River.

Commonality aside the loop really traverses some exquisite landscapes (some of the Amatola’s finest) and if one is short on time this is by far the next best thing, its really great that this option exists. I can’t think of many other examples, with perhaps the exception of the Fanie Botha and Outeniqua trails, whereby a long multiday can be split and walked in sections. A good offering providing hikers with flexibility, long may it remain an option.

Our day starting the Zingcuka Loop began early. Long before sunrise our bags were loaded into the new Fortuner at Fairies. I hit record at this point just to guide those who, for whatever reason, may opt to forgo the lift to the start option provided by Away with the Fairies as part of a package. An even earlier start for those individuals may need to be undertaken, perhaps with headlamps on Wolfridge Road until its light enough. We arrived at the start marked clearly by a large signboard stating “Zingcuka 2 day loop” and on the back of it is the Amatola completion sign as this is where the Amatola officially concludes.

It was still dark as night at this stage, but we made tracks with our headlamps on. Soon we were in the indigenous forest section on the Eastern Bank of the Tyume River, ascending through damp cool forest illuminated by nothing other than our headlamps. Climbing a bit more, faint light began to break the canopy, it revealed some splendid but slightly eerie scenes of mist alongside waterfalls in a dimly lit forest. Onward and upward we climbed, taking it rather slow as it was extremely slippery on these steep muddy and mossy sections. I was slightly worried about the pace initially but fortunately after giving it some thought and having studied the map, I knew there were sections where we could make up some fast kilometers from experience with Day 5 of the Amatola, one of those times where having done a route or part of it works in one’s favor. Impressive cascades, strong flowing water and pristine forest all around, it was good to be back I thought. Its always good to be back in this part of the world.

After a sustained climb in a Northeasterly direction with the Tyume river to the left the trail changes direction at an impressive multilayered cascade. The trail now almost makes a ninety-degree direction changes and continues to climb Southeast away from the Tyume. Soon a forestry road is met where one takes a right and continues along it for a little while before clearly marked footprints lead one back onto a single-track footpath which continues under pines. A slight direction change in this section (look for footprints markers and sticks crossing a path indicating not to go that way) and then another forestry or planation service road is met. Here it’s a right along this road towards the Southeast, Hogsback Mountain (Hog 1) soon became visible through some pines.

After rounding a bend, the Hogsback was now unobstructed in front of us but it was a somewhat faint single track path which left the road on the left here. This path continued through young pines straight along at another suspected path and then a very clear green metal sign showing the way for the two-day Zingcuka loop appeared. This sign is almost placed out of sight for those coming from the opposite direction (Day 2 Zingcuka loop and Day 6 Amatola). It’s a very obvious left at this fork. If one mistakenly continues to the right one will start erroneously ascending the hog. After this crucial left the trail joins a gravel road up ahead and then at a bend departs it for single track path (on the right). All along this section a small stream lies to the left and Hog 2 is on the left while Hog 1 is to the right.

Eventually the col or pass between Hogs 1 and 2 is reached (a low point between two peaks) and this marks the high point for the day. Descending gradually the big climb of the day is over, but its still a long way to go. We reached a stream that had to be crossed followed by a steep descent section over smooth dolerite, here a rope was fixed to provide assistance, slow but not impassable. Turning a corner and crossing a stream lower down, the path continued descending this wide-open grassland section, rogue pines dot the landscape and there were some very waterlogged boggy sections which slowed our advance.

Soon we arrived at a junction, here was the familiar Day 5 of the Amatola footpath and its well signposted. Taking a right here we soon joined the Wolf River, it was flowing impressively, in fact the many crossings thereafter required us to remove our boots, slowing our advance even further spectacular as the falls may have been. Pushing past a few pools we opted to have a lunch break at a familiar favorite, the only substantially sized pool under some indigenous canopy, the very next pool after that was also impressive and we assigned some time to it too. After a few more crossings, one which featured some brightly colored scarlet river lilies it was on to a fairly uneventful section through some wattle and pine where we could make up for some lost time, I will say the long range vistas over the Wolf River Forest are impressive here but they can be admired on the go. Another river crossing in a small indigenous section and then it was on a section of road. Not long until footprints showed a left onto single track footpath at a fork.

It was here that I heard the yell “Stop Snake!” I hit the brakes! The snake was only about a foot in front of me lying motionless across the path. My fiancée had stepped right over it, and I was right on track to do the same, or worse, right on top of it! Had she have not had such keen eyes, very different events may have transpired. So extremely camouflaged amongst some dead ferns it was the largest puff adder I had ever seen. Well over a meter and fat. After days of rain it was lying basking it the sun, completely motionless and not moving for anything, that’s what makes them so dangerous. They don’t move off, and when stepped on they can punish the perpetrator with the fastest strike of any snake in the world. Add to that some flesh rotting cytotoxic venom, the stuff of nightmares! I snapped some photographs with a zoom lens making sure to not get too close, then I proceeded to walk a wide berth around it.

We carried on, a little bit more aware of our step and soon reached ‘the big rock’. From here we texted back that soon we would be at Zingcuka hut where signal is limited. A stunning walk along the escarpment edge overlooking the Wolf River Forest below, it brought back the fond memory from the Amatola of seeing a Crowned Eagle fly past only a few meters away, no such luck this time, but the big Puffy seen just before was eventful so we couldn’t complain about a lack of wildlife sightings.

After this section along the edge, we reached the corner where the trail descends steeply. It’s some seriously sharp switchbacks and slippery sections down into the Swartzwald Forest. Basically, all downhill to the hut from here with the sun beginning to set we got some epic scenes in the forest once again. We arrived at Zingcuka with little more than twilight to spare after a long day out. At this point the fiancée proceeded to crawl into her sleeping bag and snore the night away. She had been battling a cold or flu the whole day and with blocked sinuses the body had just had enough. We were the only ones at Zingcuka Hut and that was a magical experience in and of itself. I was pleasantly surprised to get a visit from a Knysna Turaco (Loerie) at sunset and the distinct “Whoouww” single call of the African Wood Owl filled the air for most of the night, it must be a resident as we heard the same whilst walking the Amatola.

The next morning was a struggle, at about 4am I just gave up and began packing slowly and leisurely, alarms went off and a very sick, congested and grumpy fiancée just wasn’t getting out of bed. Snoozing every ten minutes and then back to snoring, protesting furiously when I merely mentioned the time marching on indifferent to our situation. We had to make a call. Bail on the hike or get moving ASAP? But a decision needed to be made. I urged the sick fiancée to simply get up and get moving just at least until a point where we could obtain some signal and then it would be possible to make a call from there. We set off rather late after much time wasted deliberating, but I wasn’t getting so much as a bar of signal. The reception around Zingcuka Hut is notoriously nonexistent.

We continued on and through sections of the forest and by the time we made it back to the road the situation was looking much better. One often feels at one’s worst in the morning just after waking but this doesn’t continue throughout the day. From here we crossed the road and began heading up towards the Hog. It’s a sustained climb past a few waterfalls and a tricky steep section over a rock where a tree ladder and some rope assist to get up the very slippery incline, pictures don’t do this section any justice. Passing and crossing at another waterfall the trail meets a forestry road where it’s a left followed by a right shortly thereafter on footpath. Meeting another road with a waterfall visible above it’s the same, left on the road followed by footpath departing shortly thereafter on the right. Here one climbs on the left-hand side of the falls until above them and then a small waterfall flowing over a weir is reached.

Here the path continues, and a road is joined. A right on this road followed a quick left on footpath takes one on single track footpath to the North. Continuing East along this road, away from the Hog high above is incorrect. The footpath crosses a boggy stream and then another forestry road is met. Here its straight over and up the embankment on the other side. The path was faint, burnt and obscured by some felled wattle, but keeping a keen eye for yellow footprints revealed the way the Hog now appears high above, but its true scale remains deceptive. Soon we found ourselves climbing steadily towards the North on long sustained leg of what later revealed itself as a switchback. At a corner the trail suddenly changes direction and then its two short switchbacks before another long one heading Southwest. This course holds until one reaches the gap through the spine of the Hog.

From here there is an epic viewpoint with views in all directions including the narrowest view of the Hog. Here one takes the gap through the dolerite wall and it’s a steep descent over rocks to the Western face of Hog 1. From here the trail heads North again under the steep rockline, climbing ever so slightly until the highpoint of the Zingcuka trail is reached, around 1770m asl, we could ever so slightly detect the thinner air up there. Here there are tons of Eastern Cape Crag Lizards which hide amongst the interesting rock features. When the Northern end of the Hog’s spine is approached the trail turns Westward slightly and heads for a spur which allows for a gentle descent. After a viewpoint at a rocky edge one reaches familiar territory. Here the split from the previous day is reached and now it’s a left (West) through the young pines down to the road walked on the previous day. At the road a right and along it for about 600m, the footpath diverts into plantation at a bend in the road and is marked by a well-positioned yellow footprint.

Down from this plantation section another road is reached and it’s a right on this road for about 300m until signs show the footpath to the left (Signs for Amatola finish or Day 6 apply too as it’s the same route and direction as Day 2 of the Zingcuka Loop). After taking this footpath, soon pines merge into indigenous forest and then the Tyume river and its familiar cascades are reached. All the way down the steep and sustained forested section along the Tyume the knees tested as one starts to really feel the kilometers by now. Eventually the trail leaves the thick forest section arriving at yet another road. “Upper Tyume Falls” in green on a white sign here. Crossing this road to a muddy section on the other side one reaches the sign and starting point from the previous day. This is also the Amatola trail completion sign for those finishing Day 6 of the Amatola Trail. From here one takes a right on Wolfridge Road up ahead.

Now one does have the option to simply take Wolfridge Road back into town, but the official trail route continues on the Amatola Plus (+) section through the Auckland Forest and arrives at Away with the Fairies (Or main road in Hogsback if staying elsewhere). This plus section is an extra kilometer if compared with the road and features some additional descents and climbs. Its tougher and an extra kilometer, but the scenery is far superior when compared with the road option. Taking a left at the signs on the plus route one climbs down a wooden staircase , then a left at the intersection below takes one to Madonna and Child Falls, one of the largest and most impressive in the area, its well worth a detour to see especially after strong rains. Then back along the boardwalk (not taking the same stairs up) keeping straight one will pass a few intersections to other waterfalls, namely Swallowtail and Bridal Veil Falls. Keep in the direction of the ‘Big Tree’, this section of the Auckland Forest is well signposted with ‘Piggy” signs showing the way.

Reaching the big tree the light was too dark under the canopy for any quality pictures, so I’ve included some from prior year's Amatola +. The tree is a large Common or Outeniqua Yellowwood Tree (Podocarpus Falcatus) and its estimated to be about 800 years old. It’s a really impressive specimen and one of the largest in the country. From here the trail climbs and it may feel like pure agony after two very long days, fortunately its only about 150m worth of climbing until one arrives at Away with the Fairies, or exiting on Main Road is staying elsewhere.

This concludes the Zingcuka Loop, a fantastic and hard won two-day trail which can be competed over the course of a weekend. We celebrated completion of the trail with a bath in the very small hobbit sized tub in Bilbo’s Rest (Our accommodation for the evening) and we went to town for a meal before hitting the hay. Hogsback has many quaint places and restaurants so it’s well worth some extra time the day after to see what the town has to offer. One may want to consider driving to give the legs a rest.

Disclaimer: Please note that I am not qualified to be giving local driving, hiking or walking recommendations as I am not a trained guide or particularly knowledgeable about the routes, difficulty, weather, or safety conditions in this area. This trail, like all my recorded activities on Wikiloc, is merely a journal or recollection of my experiences with some information which I personally would consider helpful. The information provided about this hiking or walking trail and its associated GPX recording is for the purpose of entertainment or reading and review only, the information presented may not be up to date or comprehensive enough. Trail and safety conditions, routes, difficulties and weather-related risks can change over time and vary from individual to individual. Any activity undertaken is therefore done at your own risk and requires you to verify information with local authorities, guides or experts in the field or local area before embarking on any such activity that may pose risks. As per the terms agreed to when signing up for this application or website, I or Wikiloc assume no responsibility for damages or ill-favored outcomes that may arise from using this information in any way, shape or form.